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Doniene are remarkable in their dedication to pushing the wines of this traditionally cheap and cheerful region to new levels of quality. Having bought a dilapidated estate on the coast north of Bilbao in 1996, this band of three friends has rejuvenated the old vineyards, pulled out nearly all chemical sprays from the vineyards (very difficult in this damp climate), lowered yields and cultured numerous yeasts from their own vineyards with which to conduct fermentations. The results are traditionally styled wines with fresh acidity but also a depth of lemony fruit and real saline/mineral complexity.